Bafang ошибка 30h

Hi all, I was moving the cables around on my bike yesterday. When I plugged the green 5 pin connector back in I must have twisted it and it bent the pins causing them to short and cause a flash! (In hindsight I should have taken the battery off but I didn’t…!) I’ve hand to strip back the connector to try a crude repair of the wiring and everything tests ok with a multimeter but now when I power it up the C961 display comes on but then displays error code 30 and nothing works. I’ve ordered a new cable but I’ve got a feeling I’ve killed something else. Is there any way to prove whether it’s the LCD display or the BBS02 controller that is at fault? I’ve also ordered a programming cable if that’s any help.

Thanks in advance, Mike. (Cracking forum by the way!)

error 30 is usually from the controller or the trunk cable.

Thanks Woosh, I’ll switch the trunk cable as soon as it comes and take it from there. In the mean time I’ve seen a thread for testing the mosfets in the controller so I’ll give that a go while I wait bikeless !!

Could be a couple things.
30 is communication to lcd abnormal, if it is still showing 30 after new trunk cable fitted then either lcd or the controller is at fault, out of the two a short will probably affect the controller as most of the wiring is multi functional. You should see your charged battery voltage at the lcd connector if not then the controller is at fault.

Thanks Neal, When the LCD powers up the display shows flashing empty battery — is this what you mean or should I be checking with a multimeter?

Thanks, how can I check for voltage with the LCD plugged in to power the bike up?

Thanks, how can I check for voltage with the LCD plugged in to power the bike up?

Disconnect the lcd connector, identify the 5v & Gnd on the trunk side connector to check for V’s.
d8veh has posted somewhere a diagram/schematic of the pins so shouldn’t be hard to use the search to find it or d8ve may repost it if you ask him nicely. Though again you need to be very careful not to short any pins but as you have already done it might not make much difference.

If there was a spark, you connected to battery voltage pin to one of the others, which would almost certainly do some damage. If you’re lucky, it’s just the LCD. I think that probability is on your side, so try a new LCD, otherwise you could have wiped out the controller, PAS, throttle, brake switches or motor halls, or any combination of those.

If I’d wiped out the LCD wouldn’t it be dead — it still comes on and reads code 30?

If I’d wiped out the LCD wouldn’t it be dead — it still comes on and reads code 30?

You still can have a dead LCD.
where do you live?

You still can have a dead LCD.
where do you live?

In North Wales about 5 miles from Chester

If I’d wiped out the LCD wouldn’t it be dead — it still comes on and reads code 30?

The LCD only needs battery voltage and ground wires connected to light up and look like it’s working. With only those two wires connected, it should show the battery voltage correctly. The fact that it shows an empty battery is serious. Don’t waste your time checking mosfets. they’re nowhere near the LCD and can’t be damaged like that. Checking hall sensors would be more worthwhile.

The LCD only needs battery voltage and ground wires connected to light up and look like it’s working. With only those two wires connected, it should show the battery voltage correctly. The fact that it shows an empty battery is serious. Don’t waste your time checking mosfets. they’re nowhere near the LCD and can’t be damaged like that. Checking hall sensors would be more worthwhile.

So does that point to a broken LCD or controller? I might have to bite the bullet and order one or the other !

So does that point to a broken LCD or controller? I might have to bite the bullet and order one or the other !

Disconnect the lcd connector, identify the 5v & Gnd on the trunk side connector to check for V’s.
d8veh has posted somewhere a diagram/schematic of the pins so shouldn’t be hard to use the search to find it or d8ve may repost it if you ask him nicely. Though again you need to be very careful not to short any pins but as you have already done it might not make much difference.

I’ve just checked the 5v connection and I’m getting about 10v. I’m getting about 50v on the P+ and about 40 on the PL. I got my programming cable today and I can get it to connect to the computer but I can’t get the option to read flash.
I also read this article http://www.poweredride.com/info/dump-your-bafang-display-for-stealth-and-better-display-options

It explains how to use the BBS02 without a display by joining the P+ and PL wires which I tried and it still didn’t work!
I think this points to a new controller — any ideas where to buy one please!

10v means that you’ve probably blown the 5v regulator in the controller. It wouldn’t surprise me if the throttle hall sensor is blown too. As I said before, just about every electrical component is vulnerable, including the hall sensors in the motor. To test them, you need a 5S balance lead, and you have to dismantle the motor to be able to turn the rotor. That will show if they’re switching. They’re not too difficult to repair. I’ve just done some.

I’ve found a post on how to check mosfets http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

Any idea if there’s one on how to check the regulator & hall sensors?

I told you that you don’t need to check the mosfets. You can’t get at the 5v regulator or any other components in the controller because they’re cast in silicone rubber.

To check the hall sensors, dismantle the motor until you see them. Plug in a 5S balance lead to the socket; apply 5v to the 5v and ground wires; measure from the black (ground) to each of the other three wires while you turn the main motor shaft. You should see the 5v go on and off on those wires when you turn the shaft. Here’s a photo of my repaired hall board. This is the amount of dismantling you need to do to test them. If yours are faulty, I’ll explain later how to repair them:

I think the fact I’m getting 10v at 5v terminal suggest the regulator is fried and if I can’t get to it I may as well buy a new controller but that’s a job in itself! Anyone know the best place to get one? Either that or someone who can fix mine.

Thanks for your help, it’s much appreciated

code 30 is loss of communcation between lcd and controller.

if you are still getting the problem, definitely need to contact wallke support: sales@wallkeebike.com