Код ошибки 2067

Hay guys,
Thanks again for all your help with my new (to me) old van. After the TCM fix I’ve been driving it runs great shifts smoothly

Now I’m working down the list of repairs.
06 sprinter 137k and yes I’m the proud father of a newly delivered autel 802

The mass air flow sensor was up plugged when I purchased it. If I plug it in, it dies. If I try to restart it fires then dies. Pull the plug it starts and runs great.

Tried two reset codes, no luck.
Sensor unplugged
I get 2067 signal voltage is to high, 2068 faulty onof ratio reference signal is too large.

Plugged in 2068, starts for one second then dies. Unplug it runs fine.

I’ve been doing some research, from what I understand maf codes don’t always mean it’s a maf problem. I did give a quick look for the ambient air temperature sensor, didn’t find it but didn’t spend much time. Air filter looks good. The sensor on the filter box (not sure what it is) read 2.6 k ohm.

If anyone has any ideas, greatly appreciated.

Lee

The ambient temp sensor is mounted in a hole in the plastic behind the front license plate holder.

It also feeds the dashboard display (tap the Clock button and the outside temperature appears).

When the MAF is disconnected, the ECU supplies «default» values and soldiers on…
When it’s plugged in, the ECU tries to use the data it receives to «fine tune» the injection and other operating parameters (EGR position, etc).

—dick

Ignore the ambient sensor for now, see my video in the writeups when you get everything important fixed up first.
P2067 Mass Air Flow Sensor Signal Voltage Too Low_
P2068 Mass Air Flow Sensor Plausibility Signal Ratio Error_

So the problem is that the sensor is not returning a good signal. This could be a bad MAF, dirty connector pins, or a short/open in the harness. Does the code change when you remove MAF sensor? Replace sensor if so. If not, Check the ground pin for resistance to ground and supply pins for voltage. If ok, wiggle harness, does code change? Test continuity from sensor signal to ground while wiggling harness, should be no continuity. If ok, replace MAF with OEM part only. Check all air hose clamps (remove and inspect for cracks under the clamp) and hoses for leaks. Check boost pressure sensor o ring?

Sneaky, thanks for your input. The MAP sensor is new. I just put it on. It looked like the one I took off was also brand new. So, I have a spare. I broke out the volt meter. Pin #1 was 13.9 volts, equal to battery voltage. Pin 2 was dead short to ground. Pin 3, no voltage at all. Pin 4 was 5 volts. (This is the plug side)

In the photos you’ll see I went ahead and pulled the EGR. First, it’s so easy to get to and I wanted to see what it looked like any way. It cleaned up with no solvents at all. It was free and moved with little to no resistance at all. I pulled the turbo heat shield, took off the hoses to the turbo from the breather box. I couldn’t find anything that looked bad.

Any ideas of where I should go next would be greatly appreciated.

What should I have as boost pressure? At what RPM? I found that my scanner can read it. It does seem to be a little bit sluggish. 1st gear, low RPMs.

As soon as I plug it in, the engine dies. With it plugged in, the engine starts for a second and then dies.

Thanks,
Lee

Thinks, Dick.

Wow that’s a van load of info. I downloaded the service manual, that should keep me entertained for a few years.

The reading i got from my volt meter looks good from the info. I can’t read the mz the ECM is looking for. I pull out the box the new maf sensor came in, it’s a spectra from rock auto. It has Bosch stamped on it, rebuilt?? The one I removed has Bosch stamped on it also.

I’m going to listen to Midwest & Sneaky, check the wiring as far as I can. I’m sure I can find the pin assignment with the info autostaretx posted, at least I can ohm it out. What ever it is the ECM doesn’t like it.

Thanks again. Lee

Hey guys,
My next step, ohm out the mass air flow sensor connector to the ECM. (I did a close look at the wiring, can’t see anything troubling. )

Question??? If I pull the connector’s off the ECM?????? What can go wrong???? Will there be a programming issue??? If I Disconnect the battery negative First, can in go in learn mode?

It ran great on the highway today, 83 is the top end!

Thanks autostaretx , I downloaded that service manual !!!!

Friday, after work, game on! The ECM must survive!!!!

Like always, any input welcome! Thinks Lee

MAFsensorTop.jpg

Yes the grounds are clean, I’ve tested the maf sensor connector, it all checks out. On the link above shows pin 4 sends Hz to the ECM. I’m thinking if I ohm out the pins from the maf to the ECM, that should tell me if I have continuit to the ECM also look for short’s. If that all checks out, maybe it’s the after market sensor. The one that came with the truck looks new also.

Are there other sensors in series with the maf??

With the engine running, if I connect the maf sensor it dies.

With the maf sensor connected it starts then dies. I’m thinking the ECM is reading the maf sensor, it just doesn’t like what it’s reading.

Pin #1 was 13.9 volts, equal to battery voltage. Pin 2 was dead short to ground. Pin 3, no voltage at all. Pin 4 was 5 volts. (This is the plug side)

Ok so lets reverse the pin #’s so it matches with the diagram, so that means pin 2 (Which you call pin 4) according to the diagram was at 5v, that’s the 5v supply pin, that’s proper.

Pin 4 (which you call pin 2) is the signal supply so you wouldn’t see anything very logical without a graphing meter.

Pin 3 is ground, recheck this, it should have very very low resistance to the negative battery terminal.

So your problem is clearly that your sensor signal wire is shorted to ground, because you say that pin 4 (which you call pin 2) is reading continuity to ground. I also wouldn’t trust an aftermarket sensor, but lets fix the short first.

You may be able to run a new wire with some high quality crimps to avoid having to find the short. I do not know if the very slight resistance added by a butt connector would cause a problem with the sensor, perhaps someone else can advise on this detail.

Hey guys,

I’ve been messing around with the problem of the MAF for the past couple of weeks with no luck. Here are my symptoms again: Started with mass air flow sensor code 2067 and 2068, which I still have. With the MAF plugged in, I get a code 2068 referance signal too large. The engine will run for about a second and dies. With it unplugged, I get the code 2068 and 2067, signal voltage is too high. But if it’s unplugged, the engine runs fine and that’s how I’ve been driving it the past couple weeks.

I also unplugged the intake air temperature sensor, and omed it out back to the ECM. I found both wires, nothing was shorted out. With the IAT plugged or unplugged, it sends no code and stays at a constant 176 degrees F. Hooked up to the scanner in live mode, it shows just a flat line, no movement at all. Plugged in or unplugged, it sends no code. Also, I’m getting a 0180 fuel temperature sensor is faulty open circuit. I ordered an OEM fuel temperature sensor, and replaced it, no change. I also ohmed out the wires back to the ECM, I had continuity and could find no shorts. In live data mode, it shows fuel temperature at -140 degrees F. I went through the manual and tried to follow the diagnosis steps as far as checking voltage and resistance. I kept getting to the part where it said, replace the ECM.

I’ve followed the diagrams and the pen assignments to check wire continuity/shorts. After I dropped the ECU, I noticed that I wasn’t the first one here. The wire that has been repaired is the signal wire to the MAF. I’m assuming someone was checking to see if the ECU was getting a signal. I ran a long jumper to the MAF connector back to the ECM and had continuity to all wires. I couldn’t find where anything was shorting out to ground or to any other wire in the wiring harness. Prior to that, I did the voltage check, and the ground test to the MAF connector. According to the manual, voltage ground and resistance all looked good.

This morning, I check the wiring harness the best I could until it runs into the chanel under the injector supply lines. (that looked to be quite a challenge) I wiggled and jiggled looking for shorts and couldn’t find anything.

I’m not sure where to go next. If I have to replace the wiring harness, then that’s what I have to do. But I’d hate to do all that just to find out it’s the ECM. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Lee

Have you tried smacking on the ECM? That’s how I found mine was faulty, and I had that fuel temp code out of nowhere too. If you replace the sensor with an OEM part and determine the harness is not at fault, the only other component is the ECM.

So pin 4 according to the above pinout (Sensor signal wire), the yl/dg (yellow/dark green) wire, does not have continuity to ground? It sure would be nice to have a spare ecm to swap in; know of any sprinter junkyards nearby?

I’ve called junkyards around hear, in Ft Myers FL didn’t have any luck. I’d like to find one, I also would like to get a drive shaft. I ran across a company about 2 hours from me that rebuilds them with a replaceable u joint.

I’m going to go through the process one more time, check all the connectors ohm out all the wires to the ECM to maf, fuel temp & air temp sensor.
I’m nervous about a ECM swap, from what I’ve read theirs a lot of things that can go wrong. Injector codes, fods and stuff that make you SKREEM.
The wiring harness looks like nightmare. I’ve read you can get one for under $500. I’ve also read that the wiring harness on this sprinters are made for each one, depending on what options it come with. It’s not a one harness fits all. I’m not sure if I need a new one yet, but if someone could give me the scary details it would be appreciated!!! Also replacing the harness looks to be quite job.

So here what I’m thinking, go through the wiring again and hope I find something easy to fix. ( I can dream, right?)

Second slap the sh-t out of the ECM I’m sure it deserves it!! At least it will make me feel better.

Third start spending money. Then smack the ECM around just for revenge!

Thanks everyone

Lee

I’m not sure if it’s toast or not, I’m surprised how hot it can get. I know after wiring harness.

Funny you ended your post witht cost, seems like a lot of that that around hear!!

I’ve read about tuned unit’s. There was thread a couple days back, sounds like those guys (gde) know sprinters. I’ll send them a email, see what they cost. I thought I read they were in the $600 range. Ouch!! I also saw new oem ecm’s $1200 and up. Then you had to deal with the fob.

Question???
From what I have read the SKREEM units on a 06 are a separate from the ECM. ( Behind the instrument cluster) I know it’s not a smart thing, but could a used ECM from another 06 work? With out reprogramming, would the SKREEM be the only thing?

Hay sneaky, thanks for the advice. I need to do something sooner or later, it only came with one key ( the folding kind in rough shape).

If my ecm is fried, my options would be find a used ECM and change out everything else to make it work, or $800 for A tuned guaranteed with support ECM with no key issues? In my case a plug and go unit sounds good.

I’ve owned my t1n for a little over a month. It’s been very educational, I may have to take out student loans. nothing like an Ivy League education.

I have to get this drivetrain worked out before I go on to other issues. Like air conditioning & paint. I have a wiring harness on the way, after I change that out I guess I’ll know.

Thinks Lee

I’m not sure if it’s toast or not, I’m surprised how hot it can get. I know after wiring harness.

Funny you ended your post witht cost, seems like a lot of that that around hear!!

I’ve read about tuned unit’s. There was thread a couple days back, sounds like those guys (gde) know sprinters. I’ll send them a email, see what they cost. I thought I read they were in the $600 range. Ouch!! I also saw new oem ecm’s $1200 and up. Then you had to deal with the fob.

Question???
From what I have read the SKREEM units on a 06 are a separate from the ECM. ( Behind the instrument cluster) I know it’s not a smart thing, but could a used ECM from another 06 work? With out reprogramming, would the SKREEM be the only thing?

I will state all this revolves around probabilities and possible «brain damaGE».
There’s the money factor, often dictated by a significant other AND and then there’s the DIY bit in the mix which doggedly affects and influences repair decisions.
So probabilities!!!
Yes the harness is the most likely cause of the problem, and in about 75% of similar symptoms that means a new harness, Cost about $475 and a shop should charge you 3,5 hours to change it. So no change out of say $1000 . You could do it yourself and save the labor. Some brain damage perhaps and significant other pi$$ed because you are spending more time fettling that piece of bent iron called Dodge Sprinter which you have put a Mercedes Star on the front than her!
Boiled down an adulation thing!

Next
Possibilities.
The PCM could be defectives maybe not fried.
A good used will be $150, I have lots of them! I can sell you one—(profit on these used parts sales go to a charity!)
Maybe the MAF sensor is bad—either replace at $450 (shot gun it) or test it or get it tested = some minimal brain damage- Maybe some money involved ??

Skeem module.& security.

Yes the box is behind the speedo! no probabilities here, just fact!
With your «new» PCM and original Skreem module and keys ship to SOS Diagnostics and have it all checked & fixed all jiving together in perfect harmony —like say a good tango couple dancing the milonga. No brain damage son just money—Budget $750.
Van is VOR for a week! Fact!

Probabilities —AGAIN—van is now running like a Swiss watch as it was when re-assembled by some Dodge Dickheads in Detroit—the «DDD’s» —I like that!

Now back to Possibilities
The van is right—running good now no problems and you feel like a million dollars. Some money is coming back into the bank account.
Then consider a GDE tune (since you have mentioned it) at about $750, if you can afford it!
This is not a bespoke tune something made to measure, but rather something that is like an off the peg suit-at Men’s Warehouse ! Still can make you feel good! (even if the lining is glued in!!

Now back to very remote possibilities.
With the van running like a raped ape (if such a thing existed) you strut yur stuff down on Miami Beach and meet a wealthy cougar who has a string of Schlockies delis.
She takes you to Europe where there are bespoke tailors London, Paris and all over Italy. She buys you a $10,000 real suit!

She make you her van toy boy ( getting the rolls) for the stores !
Now you are dreaming—but its OK to dream!
So getting back to feet on the ground —weigh up your probabilities & possibilities OK!
Dennis

…

Now back to very remote possibilities.
With the van running like a raped ape (if such a thing existed) you strut yur stuff down on Miami Beach and meet a wealthy cougar who has a string of Schlockies delis.
She takes you to Europe where there are bespoke tailors London, Paris and all over Italy. She buys you a $10,000 real suit!

She make you her van toy boy ( getting the rolls) for the stores !
Now you are dreaming—but its OK to dream!
So getting back to feet on the ground —weigh up your probabilities & possibilities OK!
Dennis

Perchance you’ve a bit of Guinness for lunch today? I’ll likely join you soon.

vic