Код ошибки p334a шкода йети

Hi All,

Odd one this, haven’t been able to find much info on it either. The car sometimes starts with the EPC light on accompanied by a «Stop Start Error» message on the MFD and goes into uber limp mode (25mph is an acheivement). Once it was also accompanied by the check engine light too, although this cleared itself after a few runs. VCDS recorded this (which is also why I knew it would be safe to carry on driving):

1 Fault Found:
10478 — Charge Pressure Control Actuator
P334A 00 [173] — Electrical Malfunction
MIL ON — Confirmed — Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 73898 km
Date: 2016.01.07
Time: 10:17:20

I did have to unplug this actuator when I changed the air filter for better access not long before I got this error but I’ve checked it’s in properly a fair few times and have also cleaned it with contact cleaner for good measure. So it’s either I’ve some how managed to disturb the loom into the plug (unlikely I’d have thought), or it’s just a coincidence.

I’m pretty sure it isn’t due any software updates as it looks to have the actuator shim that was fitted during the 2012 recall. The really wierd part though is the car runs totally fine as long as it starts ok without the light..

Anyone else had this before? Is it new actuator or dare I say it, new turbo time?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,

If yours is a mechanical issue and is coming back with the P334b error code rather than the P334a then as I recall reading elsewhere it’s because the vanes are sticking/gummed up. Have you tried undoing the linkage and seeing how freely the vanes move? If should be really easy to move the control lever with a positive stop at either end of the range.

Oh yeah, I forgot! It’s been a while since I’ve even though about it as the car’s been fine since doing the mod.

What about doing the above and seeing how it effects your readings? Worst case is you can always file the end of the sensor boss to it’s original length?

Our 2011 1.2 TSi started giving these symptoms just over a week ago. As we bought the car used, I contacted Seat to try and establish if the shim and engine management update had been applied. In spite of 2 further messages leaving multiple contact details I’ve heard nothing.

We get the EPC light and «Start Stop Error» message at pretty much every start up, My OBD II reader shows just the P334A error. If I switch the start/stop off, the EPC error will clear only to return on the next start up when the start / stop defaults back to being on. Ambient temperature doesn’t seem to be a factor. I’ve tried moving the actuator rod and it seems to move very freely.

Until I know if the 2012 update / mod have been applied, I’m reluctant to start messing about, especially as the nearest Seat dealer is an 80 mile round trip away.

I must admit to being pretty disappointed that such critical major components should fail on a car that’s less than 6 years old and barely done 50k. As the water pump has also started leaking, I’m really staring to be seriously unimpressed with the quality of VAG engine ancillaries. Even less impressed with the wall of silence from Seat Customer Service.

FIX FOR P334A ISSUE…

Having had a couple of 1.2 TSI cars that have demonstrated this fault and investigated further, it seems there’s a design flaw with the turbo actuators on this engine (located just to the right of the exhaust heatshield and mounted on the turbo). The internal position sensor’s plastic slides wear out and this extra slop allows the moving part of the sensor to become jammed at a self-locking angle to the fixed housing. To remedy this:

1. Purchase a 5 lobe security star drive set from Screwfix for about £20 to enable you to undo the 3 anti-tamper screws on the actuator. You’ll also need some plastic grease (brake calliper grease will be fine) and spray on lube (must be high temperature & plastic compatible such as silicone or PTFE based — metal lubes may kill the plastics!!).

2. Undo the electrical connector on the actuator by pushing down on the jack whilst gently lifting the tab on the right (fingernails work best if you have them long enough but be careful as these connectors are notorious for becoming brittle and snapping. If this happens you’ll need a small zip tie to hold the connector together when you’re finished). When you see the clip release you can then lift off the jack.

3. Undo the 3 anti-tamper screws (receiving holes circled in picture in picture — two at the top and one slightly hidden at the bottom towards the front of the car) being careful not to drop them.

4. Separate the two main halves of the actuator by sliding the black plastic housing to the right. It has runners to keep everything aligned so you’ll need to slide it a good distance before it’s fully separated but there should be room in the engine bay to do so.

5. Using a small flathead screwdriver, lift the retaining tab up from the top of the position sensor (circled in image) and the moving part of the sensor should now spring away from the housing but still be retained by the spring.

6. Use your plastic compatible grease to lubricate the slides on either side of both the moving parts and housing of the sensor being very careful not to stress & deform the spring. Also grease the boss the spring sits on and then re-clip the moving part back into the housing.

7. Use your plastic compatible grease to lubricate the teeth on all the gears on the other half of the actuator (i.e. the sub-assembly remaining mounted on the car). Ask a friend to hold a small mirror and a torch and spray your plastic compatible lube around the metal slide and spring parts to the left of the gears as you won’t be able to get grease on there with it still being mounted in the car due to access.

8. Ensure the motor connector o-rings are clean and use your plastic compatible grease to lube them.

9. For good measure you can use some battery terminal grease on the motor connector prongs to ensure good conductivity.

10. Reassemble the actuator and reconnect the electrical jack.

11. Turn you ignition on full (no need to start engine) and check whether the actuator is making a high pitched tone. If it is, disconnect and reconnect the jack a few times until this stops to reset the motor.

12. Clear your fault codes as the car should now be fixed.

13. Enjoy not having to pay for a new turbo to be fitted which is the default procedure for this fault at a main dealer.

It should be noted this error is different to the closely related P334B error code which reflects a mechanical problem with the turbo bypass valve becoming obstructed.

Hi VeeFource, thanks for the advice on your previous post.

I’ve had the module open this morning to check, and sure enough, the spring-loaded part was getting caught slightly at an angle.

I’ve applied the silicone grease as recommended and haven’t had the issue so far today.
Of course I’m not using my car much lately due to lockdowns and working from home — however we’ll see how it holds up over the next few weeks/months!

Glad to hear that. Hopefully it’s sorted now

That’s an awesome guide. Had the same problem. I didn’t see much noticeable wear on the slides or anywhere else but I greased it all up anyway. Unfortunately the problem came back after a few journeys and is continuing to occur seemingly randomly..
Any tips as to what to try next?
Cheers

You won’t really be able to see the wear on the slides as such, it’s more how sloppy a fit the sensor is to the housing that’s telling of this. It could be that your car is having to relearn the positions of the hall sensor so it may go away on it’s own after a few journeys.

Did you notice any wear on the rounded end of the sensor? If the fault doesn’t go away and there is wear there then the sensor could be going outside of it’s range. In which case you can apply a blob of supgerglue or araldite to the worn area of the rounded end of the probe, wait for it to dry and then reshape with with suitably graded sandpaper until it resembles how the rounded end would have originally been. Again the car may get upset a few times until it learns the new position of the sensor vs what it’s asking the motor to do.

There could of course always be other issues going on such as bad electrical connections etc so ultimately this guide may not be the saviour of this error code in every case I’m afraid.

Hi VeeFource,

Obviously this is a fix for the P334A not the P334B — however yours is one of the most in depth guides I’ve seen from dozens of threads so I was wondering if you have any advice about the P334B issue. OBD diagnostics on my sisters ’14 Ibiza (EPC/limp mode) have flagged up P334A/P334B and I’m looking for possible DIY solutions before I take it to a specialist to potentially be told the turbo assembly needs replacing. I had a look under the bonnet and the actuator rod has maybe 1 mm travel if i move it by hand — significantly less than in this video

and zero noticeable movement under revs, so it seems like it’s jammed. I’m no mechanic (I’ve only ever had to do discs/pads) but I was wondering if it’s possible/easy to clean up the actuator to try to free it up and if so if you have any advice on how best to do that.

If not that, is it worth replacing the actuator like in the video? And if I do, does it need recalibrating? If it does, is this something I can do or does it require specialist equipment?

Thanks in advance for any help you can give.

Hi voykek,

It sounds like you have a gummed up wastegate valve which would mean investigations into that rather than the actuator. When I first was looking into the P334a issue I disconnected the actuator to see how easy it was to move the valve rod by hand and it was very easy with distinct stops at each end if that’s of any use for reference. But having discovered it was the actuator I didn’t really investigate any further on the turbo. That video looks like he’s addressing a P334a fault given the valve rod looks to move freely.

From what I read (now quite some time ago) I think new actuators do have to be calibrated to the turbo which needs to be done by a specialist. Your main dealer won’t do it I’m afraid as their solution would just be to replace the whole turbo to make their margins work.

Also I personally don’t recommend moving the rod whilst connected to the actuator as it’s a fragile thing and doesn’t take much to cause the P334a fault code as well.

Hope you get it sorted mate

Hi voykek,

It sounds like you have a gummed up wastegate valve which would mean investigations into that rather than the actuator. When I first was looking into the P334a issue I disconnected the actuator to see how easy it was to move the valve rod by hand and it was very easy with distinct stops at each end if that’s of any use for reference. But having discovered it was the actuator I didn’t really investigate any further on the turbo. That video looks like he’s addressing a P334a fault given the valve rod looks to move freely.

From what I read (now quite some time ago) I think new actuators do have to be calibrated to the turbo which needs to be done by a specialist. Your main dealer won’t do it I’m afraid as their solution would just be to replace the whole turbo to make their margins work.

Also I personally don’t recommend moving the rod whilst connected to the actuator as it’s a fragile thing and doesn’t take much to cause the P334a fault code as well.

Hope you get it sorted mate

Appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. I’ve booked it in with a local VW specialist that I was recommended. On the phone they agreed it could be a jammed wastegate valve but said there were other possibilities. They’ve got glowing reviews online so I’m hoping they will do their best to offer an affordable solution. Thank you.