Are there any fault codes stored, and does the CEL go away under prolonged starting?
You can use a fuel pressure gauge to rule out both your fuel pump and pressure regulator. Attach and watch it when it’s refusing to start next time. There’s a convenient valve on your fuel rail for that, same as a tyre valve, so even a chap tyre pressure gauge could perhaps be used. (but maybe it won’t live long after) You should see around 3 bar(44psi) of fuel pressure when starting. If it’s lower than that can indeed be the cause of the problem.
Check your compression, low compression will make it hard to start, possibly refusing to do so at all when any other minor issue arises.
(via OBD, cheap readers suffice here) Look into the long and short term fuel trims if you can, it will give more insight in what has happened before.
It’s possible the MAF is contaminated, causing it to run roughly. Some MAF’s heat up very hot when you’re shutting off the engine, burning off some of the dirt. That may be why you can start it again when trying it a while later.
Check for air leaks, they will cause lean running, or no running at all.
Hi, I have had my 2006 330xi since May. I have had several issues (to be expected with any car), but all have been solved and fixed. But I am at a complete stand still with this issue.
For the past 2 months now i have been driving without my MAF sensor being hooked up. I replaced my intake with a AFE Cold Air Intake, possibly while doing it i damaged the sensor, so i bought a brand new OEM sensor hoping to solve the issue, but it still persists (i have already tried disconnecting battery for 30min to let ECU reset). So i have given up on that issue and am just driving on default fuel.
About a month ago i had a ignition coil go out. So i replaced that one coil as well as had them replace all 6 plugs (the ones in it before were autozone cheapies and were getting old. Ever since i got the car back i have had low idling at around 600 rpm with a slight trimmer (nothing extreme like when you have a bad MAF sensor or a bad coil). This low idle has occurred since i disconnected the MAF a few months backm, but since i had the coil and plugs replaced it will drop to as low as 200~300 rpm when breaking or turning and has stalled on me in intersections before. Now this is dangerous to me and others because power steering will nearly go out when turning and stalling in an intersection is just not good. So i would like to get this straightened out before someone gets hurt.
I was thinking of replacing the wiring for the MAF sensor to see if getting the MAF issue resolved will also solve this issue.
What has been replaced?: Car is at 127,000 miles.
Water Pump: 115,000
Starter: 120,000
A few hoses: 120,000
Cold Air intake: 117,000
Ignition Coil: 125,000
Spark Plugs: 125,000
I bought and tried a new MAF sensor at around 121,000, car went bad about a week after getting it back from the dealer for the replaced starter.
If anyone needs any more info let me know, i can also pull codes as well if anyone would like those.
Thank You, Andy
-
#1
Hello every one,
My car starts at very low rpm 6-700 and the rpm rises gradually to 1240 when it warms up to operational temperature.
Is there something wrong? What do I have to look for?
Regards
-
#2
Seized waxstat fast idler mechanism on back of pre-facelift TB (I usually remove the obsolete mechanism).
Plus also a sticky/seized idle control valve, at front of preface TB and at back of facelift Bosch TB.
-
#3
Seized waxstat fast idler mechanism on back of pre-facelift TB (I usually remove the obsolete mechanism).
Plus also a sticky/seized idle control valve, at front of preface TB and at back of facelift Bosch TB.
Thanks pollyp,
Its a w reg with a Bosch TB, I think.
Can you please elaborated on how to check and fix it?
Regards
-
#4
Unscrew n remove the iacv, clean fully with carb or brake cleaner till valve moves smoothly.
-
#5
Unscrew n remove the iacv, clean fully with carb or brake cleaner till valve moves smoothly.
Many thanks pollyp,
I will try that, if I can locate it.
Regards
-
#6
black unit at the back (left of pic) of the TB
-
#7
black unit at the back (left of pic) of the TB
View attachment 46160
Many thanks polltp.
I will try that. I have ordered some break cleaner yesterday. Hopefully it will arrive Saturday.
I will update when done it.
Any idea about the screen wash fluid not coming. Checked the fuse its okay.
Regards
-
#9
black unit at the back (left of pic) of the TB
View attachment 46160
Hi pollyp,
I have tried to locate and open it, but unfortunately noticed that in order to open it tb has to be removed as can be seen here: .
Furthermore, the car thrown a p130 error code. Now can you please advise/instruct me how go about it?
Regards
-
#10
4 bolts 1 at each corner of throttle body. Unscrew them And lift off.
-
#11
4 bolts 1 at each corner of throttle body. Unscrew them And lift off.
Thanks Agent_Sm1th,
I was worried if it effects something else thats not obvious!
If unscrewing and disconnecting other connection and remove the TB, will not effect anything else, then thats what i will tomorrow, since I don’t have time today. Have to go to work.
Regards
-
#12
Hi pollyp,
I have tried to locate and open it, but unfortunately noticed that in order to open it tb has to be removed as can be seen here: .
Furthermore, the car thrown a p130 error code. Now can you please advise/instruct me how go about it?
Regards
the TB has to be removed via those 4 star torx head bolts (the prefacelift uses allen heads) for easier access to the IACV screws
p130 is bad or out of range O2 sensor
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0130
-
#13
the TB has to be removed via those 4 star torx head bolts (the prefacelift uses allen heads) for easier access to the IACV screws
p130 is bad or out of range O2 sensor
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0130
Thanks pollyp,
Checked o2 sensor and its 0.5 or some times fluctuating up to 0.9 and 0.4.
Replaced the 02 sensor in 2013 and the car was standing since May 2013. Basically its done less then 2000 miles with the new sensor which is universal one!
Is it possible to clean an 02 sensor? If yes, what with?
I have not opened the iacv yet since haven’t received the torx that ordered from Amazon yet.
Regards
-
#14
Thanks pollyp,
Checked o2 sensor and its 0.5 or some times fluctuating up to 0.9 and 0.4.
Replaced the 02 sensor in 2013 and the car was standing since May 2013. Basically its done less then 2000 miles with the new sensor which is universal one!
Is it possible to clean an 02 sensor? If yes, what with?
I have not opened the iacv yet since haven’t received the torx that ordered from Amazon yet.
Regards
if the O2 is flicking up/down twice per sec at 2k rpm then it’s responding fine. unless ur burning loadsa oil & soot, they rarely need cleaning (at worst could prob just brush the soot buildup off) since any residue usually burns/blows itself off.
best off cleaning and getting the IACV working first before considering any replacement of a more expensive O2 sensor.
-
#15
Classic throttle body problem ????
-
#16
if the O2 is flicking up/down twice per sec at 2k rpm then it’s responding fine. unless ur burning loadsa oil & soot, they rarely need cleaning (at worst could prob just brush the soot buildup off) since any residue usually burns/blows itself off.
best off cleaning and getting the IACV working first before considering any replacement of a more expensive O2 sensor.
Thanks pollyp,
I have noticed one of the spark leads is quit oily due to oil spillage perhaps. Was wondering if cleaning the spark connection will do any good. I have got contact cleaner will it any harm/good if sprayed on the electrical connection in general and spark connection in particular?
This is the product I gothttp://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003IIGVBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1449310638&sr=8-17&pi=SL75&keywords=contact+cleaner+electrical
Please advise.
Regards
Last edited: Dec 5, 2015
-
#17
Thanks pollyp,
I have noticed one of the spark leads is quit oily due to oil spillage perhaps. Was wondering if cleaning the spark connection will do any good. I have got contact cleaner will it any harm/good if sprayed on the electrical connection in general and spark connection in particular?
This is the product I gothttp://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003IIGVBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1449310638&sr=8-17&pi=SL75&keywords=contact+cleaner+electrical
Please advise.Regards
u mean it’s oily inside the spark plug tube? that’s usually caused by old loose spark plug tube oil seal on the engine cover
and fixed by either getting a newer engine cover or enlarging the tubes with some tape for tighter fit
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-136#post-724736
for the electrode side of the spark plug, the most u should do is just brush any loose carbon off by hand with small wire brush (avoid wire wheel brushing it cos that tends to leave a metallic residue all over the tip & insulators from the wire wheel and affecting spark slightly) and check/adjust the spark gap to 1.1mm
ensuring a clean dry electrical connection is always good so give the oil contaminated spark plug top and the inside of the HT lead head a good wipe clean.
the 500ml can on contact cleaner is just isoprophl alchohol electronics cleaner (nice weak solvent for cleaning any fine dirt/grease/residue off delicate surfaces like electronic contacts, lenses, heatsinks, any surface that has to be really spotless).
not really of use around the car tbh, too weak for the heavy duty dirt/grease. if you can return it, I’d still go for carb or brake cleaner as a much more versitile and stronger cleaning agent.
-
#18
Very many thanks pollyp for a very detailed explanation.
Can the brake cleaner be used on MAF sensor?
Regards
-
#19
Tried to remove TB for access to IACV but failed. The stopping point was the 2 pipes connected to and is really difficult to remove!
Here is the video o 2nd attempt
Regards
-
#20
tease them off with a flat screwdriver (with the bolts back in)
-
#21
slide the metal clamps along the hose away from the pipe it’s clamping onto with pliers.
the rubber hose usually sticks to the pipe after being clamped for yrs so crack loose the bond by twisting the hose with pliers where it joins the pipe.
once it’s cracked loose, pull & twist the hose out.
those are coolant hoses so be ready for spillage and plug up the two hoses with a bung or bolt.
-
#22
Thanks frank and pollyp,
I will the tricks perhaps tomorrow if weather permits. I think i have to drain the coolant first. It needs replacing anyway.
In the mean time, is if possible to spray from the top opening of the TB? If yes how to remove the mash?
Regards
-
#23
if ur gonna replace coolant, drain it all before unplugging the TB lines will make it abit easier so dont have to bung the pipes.
remember to turn heater dial full hot to open the matrix pipes to drain & bleed.
just spray through the TB mesh aimed at the maf wire
-
#24
if ur gonna replace coolant, drain it all before unplugging the TB lines will make it abit easier so dont have to bung the pipes.
remember to turn heater dial full hot to open the matrix pipes to drain & bleed.just spray through the TB mesh aimed at the maf wire
Thanks pollyp
When heater dial is turned to full, should the engine be running or cold for draining the old coolant? Or its only necessary bleeding?
Regards
Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
-
#25
Turn to hot for both draining cold coolant and when bleeding system with running engine.
-
#26
Turn to hot for both draining cold coolant and when bleeding system with running engine.
Thanks pollyp,
Third time lucky I have opened TB and iacv unit but can not locate valve! Is that unit opens if yes its really difficult.
Here is video
Regards
-
#27
yep thats the bosch IACV removed and is a sealed unit. just need to spray carb/brake cleaner into both openings to clean/flush any carbon/dirt off the moving valve ports inside and reinstall.
-
#28
yep thats the bosch IACV removed and is a sealed unit. just need to spray carb/brake cleaner into both openings to clean/flush any carbon/dirt off the moving valve ports inside and reinstall.
Thanks pollyp,
I have sprayed brake cleaner something like six times. Reinstalled everything.
Refilled the coolant and ent for drive. There was much difference. I have to check idle fro cold in morning. When warm the Rpm was idle at 1050-1100.
Regars
-
#30
How do I do that? Can elaborate please?
Regards
-
#32
Thank polly,
I have sprayed on some connections the engine turned off couple of minutes and when started the engine was gone driving for about less than half mile it came back on.
It seems that there is air leak somewhere but how pin point it?
Will a damaged tb gasket cause air leake? Where get one of those or what of sealant do need?
Please advise
-
#33
look at the video.
the TB gasket is a thin plastic that doesn’t normally leak unless u intentionally wreck it.
-
#34
Last edited: Dec 10, 2015
-
#35
Update:
Got a gasket from west way Nissan for £3.78 the other day and fitted today. Before fitting the gasket the car, when warm, the RPM going to a stage that at traffic lights it stalling. But now after replacing the gasket went for a mile drive and came back the stalling and kangrooing is gone but the RPM is 12-1300.
Cleaned the MAF and will drive to work and back to see whats changing.
Regards
-
#36
I would just change the throttle body.
-
#37
Update:
Today went shopping and noticed the kangrooing started again. Worse part is that when warms up it turns off and after couple of start battery goes down. Today barely got home and had to push from the road to drive way!!
After replacing the gasket it was okay for going to work and back which is 4 mile Dow the motorway.
Throttle consists of MAF, TPS, IACV sensors and some plates (some please correct). Instead of replacing the whole unit wouldn’t it be easier to check and the faulty part?
One question how to clean the throttle body housing? Does it have effect?
Next I will clean the TPS and MAF with methylated spirits and resolder the o2 sensor connection that was soldered when replaced it.
Regards
-
#38
Your battery should last more than a couple of starts? You need some volts to power the ECU. Check the alternator is charging or get a new battery if its duff.
-
#39
Had and old MAF and cleaned it by immersing in methylated spirit for 10 minutes and left to dry for couple hours. Fitted the cleaned MAF and tested the o2 data. It was going up and down like a yoyo with the RPM at 1060. But RPM was at 960 when the car started but gradually increased to 1060 without touching the pedal.
Opened one of spark plugs for checking and was nice brownish. But unfortunately fitting it back brook the screw/bolt!!!
Any ideas how to get out?
Regards
-
#40
Hello every one,
After all the fiddling I managed to end up with the original high idle issue minus the engine light!
Here is what I have done:
1. Opened and cleaned the IACV
2. Cleaned the TPS.
3. Replaced the MAF sensor.
4. Replaced O2 Sensor
The high idle is getting worse and the sound is horribly loud specially at the traffic lights where the RPM is fluctuating like a yoyo between 1200 and 2000!
I drove nearly 100 mile from Manchester to Birmingham today.
This morning when I sprayed contact cleaner on the MAF and TPS the RPM stayed at 1200 for a while.
Does any have any suggestions?
Please help.
Regards
-
#41
Its the old throttle body problem — surely???
Do the old solder trick, of stick a new TB on.
-
#42
Its the old throttle body problem — surely???
Do the old solder trick, of stick a new TB on.
Thanks davyboy,
The TB is the Bosch version.
Regards
-
#43
That’s the one…..German engineering — over-rated.
There’s a video on here somewhere that shows how to do the solder repair.