Ошибка p3120 приус 11

ошибка P 3120-245

Приветствую всех!подскажите про ошибку P3120-245 ?что это и где искать?

Re: ошибка P 3120-245

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Лобанов Святик » 07 сен 2016, 13:35

Re: ошибка P 3120-245

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atak » 07 сен 2016, 16:49

надо искать сканер, который видит подкод. в общем случае 3120 означает проблему с коробкой, а подкод (информационный код) 243, 245 и т.д. более детально говорит о неисправной подсистеме внутри. СКОПИРОВАННО…—http://www.estima.su/2008/10/service-an … rid-ahr10/ Удачи.

Re: ошибка P 3120-245

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Лобанов Святик » 08 сен 2016, 14:49

Re: ошибка P 3120-245

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Пильвялис Евгений » 08 сен 2016, 19:30

Re: ошибка P 3120-245

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abstoma » 18 сен 2016, 12:41

Вот такое пишут.

Re: ошибка P 3120-245

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Пильвялис Евгений » 29 сен 2016, 16:09

спасибо все прозвонил,все как в книжке но проблема осталась!что такое резольвер и как он выглядит на ней?может кто делал?как то коробку не хотелось бы менять.

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   Joined:

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   Vehicle:

   2001 Prius

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   Well, I wish I would have spent more time reading this forum, before I abused my beloved NWH11. I bought her a little over a year ago when it had ~89k miles on it. Since it’s mostly a commute vehicle, I’ve managed to get the mileage up to about 163k. It looks like I made the mistaken of taking a vacation from the bay area to Nevada with the car overly weighted (3 bikes on the back + tons of gear in the trunk). I was in a hurry and pushed it a little hard going over donners pass, and suddenly I noticed I didn’t have nearly as much power, and the battery was showing as only being about 1/3 full on the display. I stopped at the next rest stop and let the ICE recharge the battery, thinking that MG2 wasn’t running due to low battery. I was very careful after that and drove quite slowly. I made it home, but not without worrying the whole time, and thinking «somthing» didn’t feel right… No triangles of death, no indication other than it «felt different» and I didn’t seem to have as much power. By the time I made it home, it felt mostly ok.

   About 2 months later (just the other day), I was again abusing my poor car, driving about 75 mph, trying to beat rush hour, and up comes the exclamation point, and check engine light, and I quickly loose power in the middle of a 6 lane interchange on the 101 (great fun). I was able to get off an exit by luck and made it to a parking it. The gas was showing I only had one bar left, but it wasn’t blinking, and I know I have atleast 50+ miles once it starts blinking so I didn’t think I was out of gas, as has happened in the past when I’ve seen the exclamation (I’ve always refilled within minutes)… So I again turned on the engine thinking maybe the ICE would charge the battery and I could make it to a gas station, or god would get me out of it or something; so I limped to a gas station, filled up, and it seemed to work a little bit better.

   I let it sit for another half hour or so and lo and behold no more Christmas lights. Not only that, it was acting quite normal. I’ve been driving it in fear ever since…. I knew about the possible transaxle problem when I bought the car (I did some research), but I wish I would have read the whole part about «hills and heat and excessive speed», but it is what it is now…

   I took it to the local prius guy, and he said the computer told him the following:

   Engine codes:
   P0440 EVAP
   p3190 ENGINE POWER

   HV ECU:
   P3120 HV Transaxle Assembly Malfunction
   1 Info Code 239 (I’ve googled this has somthing to do with the crank shaft?)
   2 Info Code 204

   ABS
   C1259 HW SYSTEM REGENERATIVE FAULT

   Guess the good news is the battery works fine. The guy said the trans-axle is toast, and needs replacement asap. AFAIK he didn’t check the trans-axle fluid as he said he would, but simply declared the trans axle dead. I said, «Would changing the fluid put a band aid on it?) he said, «No, I’m currently only running on the ICE».

   Well, I don’t believe that is true because I am still getting a solid 45 MPG (even after resetting my computer and driving for several miles)… The computer also shows that MG2 is sending power to the wheels and getting power from the wheels…

   I’ve seen people replacing the stators, and I have a non-prius mechanic I think can do it ok, but I’m wondering if it’s really necessary… I’ve not been able to find anything about the 204 info code….

   Any help would be appreciated, and please keep the finger pointing to a minimum, I already feel bad enough for abusing this poor little Prius No. 332

   Also, I should note: My main rear seal is also leaking oil and needs to be replaced… Is it possible this has somthing to do with the transaxle/crankshaft problem?

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   ohio

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   2003 Prius

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   I

   local prius guy and «No, I’m currently only running on the ICE».

   Does your car ever make it into S4 (golf cart mode)? ie. if coolant warms up and you get to 35 mph then come to stop for 10 seconds, or stop until ICE shuts off.. Can you drive around with almost barely pressing on the gas pedal and only drive with MG2?

   Do you hear any noises? If you drive in reverse for say 500 ft, do you hear any noises? Does the car slow down when you regen ie. foot of the brake? Does it slow down faster when in B (when going under say 40 mph)

   At the very least, pull the transaxle drain plug (make sure it isn’t the coolant plug) and siphon some ATF fluid out and see what color and smell it has. It might be worth a few hours to just drop the transaxle pan and look for bad metal bits or stuff in the pan and change the fluid, but I guess that might be not worth it if MG2 is really shot, which is not uncommon.

   luciousgarage has some youtube videos on MG2 you might want to watch.

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   It does work fine with the EV only (when backing up, etc…) so that’s why I’m really questioning this guys diagnosis. Since I’ve been reading about this whole «whining» noise, I guess I should have stated that it’s been making that noise every since I got the car, so I figured this was a normal thing a Prius did, so I guess I should ask… Don’t electric motors whine a least a little bit? It’s not overly loud, and you really have to listen for it, but I’ve put about 60k miles on it with that whining noise, and I’ve never had any other problems with this car.

   Luckily, I live in the Bay area and if it does die, I guess I should have it towed straight to luciousgarage, since they really seem to know what they’re doing. Unfortunately for that youtube they failed to show the whole procedure for accessing/disassembling the MG2 (although, they did show it being replaced). I signed up for an all data account and now have access to the blow up views so I’m going to check that and see if my mechanic thinks he can handle it. From the way people talk, this is really a tough thing to do, but it looks pretty easy from the looks of that youtube video…

4. I’m going to suggest if the car is drivable, take it to Arts or Lucious and ask them to diagnose what is going on. Without a Prius aware OBD scanner, it is easy to be misled. They have the expertise to give you a full analysis. Tell them you’d like to know if they see any problems including the traction battery, a through heath check.

   BTW, the signature noise is more of a rumble or humming sound than a whine and easily heard/felt. In normal operation, ICE temp > MG1 temp > MG2 temp. But if MG2 > MG1 and there be problems here.

   After their diagnosis, you might consider a Scangauge II, $150, as it provides not only driving help but with XGAUGES, a lot of engineering and diagnostic data. The XGAUGES are about as difficult to do as an SMS message so no big deal.

   GOOD LUCK!
   Bob Wilson

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   Yep, it works just fine. ICE shuts off at stop lights, and I can drive in EV mode at slow speeds. No overt studdering.No noises, excepted the minor whining I mentioned. I tried backing up well over 500 feet up a hill, with no problem, no noise. The only thing close to a stutter I could feel was in the first half second of taking off in EV only mode, and I could BARELY notice it.
   Yeah, I’m going to drop the pan and check the oil.. I’ll post a picture

6. 
   

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   The place I took it deals only in hybrid repair, and they have the prius scanners. The codes they gave me were from those. I’m sure they never tested the temp of the motors as they never drove the thing at sort of distance, unless they can pull that from the car with the scanner. Either way, I think taking it into the city is a good idea…

7. I often forget how many more Prius are in California compared to Dixie.

   Bob Wilson

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   sounds generally healthy.. not sure about it throwing codes…

   But probably worth the time and money to at least pull the transaxle pan. YOu can order new cork gasket, though I think I could have just reused mine. Remember to save some fluid mid stream in a glass jar if you ever want to send it in for UOA.

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   So my mechanic friend has drained the ATF and it «looks ok» he says (no overt burning, and still pretty redish, i forgot to take a picture of it but I will, I collected some in a glass jar). I have no idea if the previous owner ever had it changed. So the bad news: There was a fair amount of gunk on the magnet and in the pan (it felt like butter, see pictures below)… It was mostly really fine, but there were some larger jagged pieces of metal in there (enough to prick your finger!)

   

   
   No idea where the metal is coming from.. Any ideas? I assume since the error code I got related to the HVT shaft, that the shaft or bearings are the source of the problems. Maybe the stator is fine? Would changing the shaft, etc, out be prudent or is it too difficult? I have alldata access, and a traditional mechanic to help with this. Also like I said, the rear main seal is leaking…. Could the two be related?

   My mechanic friend is insisting we use a gasket sealer on the cork gasket… Is this going to cause a problem? If so, how? I did buy a new gasket. I also read somewhere about replacing the washers on the fill and drain plugs, but they were talking about a gen 2, should I also change the washers?

   Thanks for everyone’s replies so far, they are much appreciated

10. If you bought the correct Toyota gasket, sealer is not required. I believe you will see that sealer was not used on the original gasket.

    The aluminum washers are supposed to be replaced each time the drain/fill plugs are removed, according to the Toyota repair manual. However if you reuse them once or twice it is not the end of the world.

    It is likely that the ferrous metal particles come from bearing wear. The little rectangular pan magnet attracts a tremendous amount of particles, as your photos show.

    The crankshaft rear seal leak would not cause fault codes to be logged.

    Regarding the three-digit info codes, I suggest you download repair manual info at techinfo.toyota.com so you can assess their meaning.

11. As bad as it looks, don’t panic although what sounds like slivers is not good:

    • sealant — the transaxle case is assembled using a red-colored, silicon sealant. Small beads break off within the first 5-10,000 miles and get converted into a fine, redish mush, and small pale bits. This is likely the non-magnetic sludge in the bottom. It is not good but things could be worse.
    • magnet material — the usual wear creates a very fine, metal ‘dust’ in the transaxle oil. The particle sizes are closer to smoke than anything else and it is undesirable. However, the non-ferrous metals like aluminum, copper, and tin are not fixed by the magnet.
    • ‘slivers’ — this is not good but not instantly fatal. It needs to be monitored.

    Here is what I’ve been doing in the past to look at transaxle oil analysis. My first oil change smelled of paraffin, it had been abused probably because of the high-speeds and temperatures in Texas. A change at 7,000 miles revealed there is about a 15% carry forward after a change. Currently I’m testing Type WS instead of Type T-IV (NHW11 original transaxle oil) but there is no evidence either way that one is a superior solution to the other. However, it looks like Type WS may suffer a slower loss of viscosity compared to Type T-IV.

    My recommendation is consider this first change a ‘flush’. Wait 5-7,000 miles and do a second change to dilute the last 15% and look for more slivers. Absent hard OBD data showing MG2 temperatures are running hotter than MG1, or a hard code (one that comes on as soon as the car is put in «D») I would continue using the car monitoring what is going on. Meanwhile, keep your options open. Slivers is the signature of a mechanical, gear problem, not the burnt, MG2 stator.

    Bob Wilson

    
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    Last night I was driving home from San Diego to Los Angeles in my 2002 Prius, and the ‘triangle of death’ as you call it, went on. I got off the #405 and parked for 10 minutes while I read the manual which said get to a dealer as soon as possible. I started it back up and the engine seemed to be fine but the ‘triangle of death’ was still there, so I decided to continue to drive but stayed in the right lane. I must have gone another 20 miles when I suddenly lost engine power, the headlights and dashboard were fine, and hazard lights worked fine. I was able to get to a safe place and towed the car home. Today I am researching what happened. Along with the ‘triangle of death’, the check engine light (little red icon) was on but I didn’t get the ‘Main Engin’ error message. Anyway, I’m trying to research what the problem might be before taking it to the dealer.

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    If you want to diagnose the problem yourself your going to need a ODB-II code scanner. I’ve got a ScangaugeII on the way, which I guess can read/diagnose much more than your standard scanner, especially on preii. As you might know, 1 of 2 problems usually happen with these gen1. Your battery or transaxle may eventually fail; It’s hard to say without a scanner. How many miles do you have on the car?

    I’m guessing since it’s so much hotter down there, if you were doing some heavy freeway driving, it may be the transaxle overheated and you burnt the stator, just a guess tho. Have you ever changed the transmission fluid? I’m afraid the transaxle isn’t cheap. Not sure if there are any garages doing the «Luscious garage» (in SF) new stator repair in LA, which can greatly extend the life of your transmission. Check out the youtube video..

    I’m praying mine keeps running ok… I’m going to be checking the temps of the motors very closely…

15. Were you driving on cruise control or just pedal?

    There is an known weakness with the accelerator encoder that can cause issues. But if you were using cruise control, that would not be involved.

    What speed and temperatures?

    Thanks,
    Bob Wilson

16. Are you sure you want to do that? I’m in Los Angeles and specialize in hybrids, especially Prii. I would be happy to diagnose it for you.As a matter of fact, I’m in Los Angeles and have replaced more than a couple Prius stators, just as Luscious garage does.

    
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    So I got a scanguageII and I’m trying to setup the xguages but I don’t see one listed for the temp of the ICE.. I see the MG1 & MG2 temp, but not the engine directly… Should I use the engine coolant temp to monitor the engine temp so I can make sure nothing is overheating as Bob said above, «In normal operation, ICE temp > MG1 temp > MG2 temp. But if MG2 > MG1 and there be problems here.»

    Thanks again for everyone help!

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    Alright, I got the gauge programmed and took it for a test drive. It appears that MG2 is averaging about 5 degrees hotter than MG1. The most dramatic difference I saw was MG2 being about 14 degrees more then MG1, but that usually would happen when I would pull over to the side of the road, they both kept fairly even on the highway. There were a few times when MG1 did get hotter than MG2, but that was the exception. The hottest I saw MG2 get was 158 Degrees (usually stayed around 150 or so), the ICE coolant temp was between 181-188…

    Is this indicative that the stator might be starting to burn out? Is there a max temp for MG2 where I should stop and let it cool? Could the coolant passages be blocked or pump be bad? Should I start looking at these things? Any insight would be appreciated…

19. C or F? If C, is not good. If F, less bad. For small numbers, 5F ~=2.5C (actually 9/5 ratio which is close to 2:1.)MG2 failure usually happens over a period of time measured in months. MG2 is primarily air cooled so on the highway, this is less bad.These sound like degrees F. Temperatures over 100C / 212 F are death.IF those are degrees F, not a problem. If degrees C, big problem. The threshold I use is anything over 90C (194F) it is time to slack off the speed or climb and let it cool off. Stopping is not much help because that also stops the air flow through the grill inlet.These are viable hypothesis but easily checked. Look at the resevoir beside the inverter and see if the level changes and if you open the cap, there is turbulence. These are signs that things are probably OK.

    Bob Wilson

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    Sorry I didn’t specify I was speaking in Fahrenheit, but yes that is the case. I should also note the test drive took about 30-45 minutes and involved both city and highway driving. I’ll check out the inverter pump next. I’m broke so I need to keep this car running as long as possible without incurring $2,500 bills for transaxles and batteries. I’m very glad I got that scangauge, I can’t wait to check out all my HV battery info and some of the other xgauges…

    Thank you so much Bob, you have been incredibly helpful. If you ever find yourself in northern CA, I’d love to buy you a beer