Ошибка u1266 0208

1 2017-07-30 08:45:20 (2017-08-16 02:38:25 отредактировано senchas)

2 Ответ от kaissa 2018-06-17 08:39:52 (2018-06-17 08:40:18 отредактировано kaissa)

3 Ответ от BArtS 2018-12-03 09:53:30

4 Ответ от эдвадуард 2018-12-03 10:46:17

5 Ответ от senchas 2022-08-11 20:13:55

Newporttom wrote:Replacement battery pack with 35,000 miles on it. No lost bars yet. 12v battery might be 18 months old. Have one of the modified EVES that allows you to do 240.

Got home with 9 miles left and LBW. Plugged it in. Paid no attention to whether charging lights came on. Leaf Spy with newer ELM device was on all night I think.

Today car won’t start. No indications of charge bars (had one when I got home). Car acts like it’s on but shows 0 bars of charge. Car beeps when you plug in EVSE but no lights come on (even for a second).

DTS codes
P317 00C0 EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
PA0AA6 00C6 EV/Hev Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157

U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92
U1232 0108 Multi AV St ANgle Sen Calib AV-88

Didn’t see anything quite like this when searching. Car reads as being in Neutral but not sure if it really is.

U1266 0208 Multi AV TCU Conn AV-92
This code means that the TCU (Carwings) unit was disabled. I’m guessing you still have the old 2G TCU, didn’t pay for the upgraded 3G model. If so, congratulations—the dealer did the service properly (I had 3 dealers attempt and fail this). You can ignore this code, it has nothing to do with your problem and this code is not a problem as long as you don’t use Carwings.

U1232 0108 Multi AV St ANgle Sen Calib AV-88
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=16777

This code appears to have been related to the steering wheel angle calibration sensor. If you turn the wheel left and right, it should clear the error condition. This is also linked to 12V battery issues. See here:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=16777

P317 00C0 EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
PA0AA6 00C6 EV/Hev Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157

Do you have typos in these codes? I see on another page them described as follows
P31E7 000B EV/HEV Restart Inhibition EVC-310
P0AA6 0008 EV/HEV Hybrid Batt Volt Sys Isolation EVC-157
(http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=26179)

These indicate one of two things:
1) Your 12V battery is low or dead and causing the car to misdiagnose things. This is supported by the U1232 error as well. OR
2) Your main traction battery has gone bad, one of the cells has failed.

This is what you should do:
1) Put a standard car battery charger on the 12V battery under the hood, as alozzy suggested. Let it charge until the 12V battery is charged. You can use any 12V car battery charger like you would have for a gas-powered vehicle.
2) Clear the codes with LeafSpy Pro
3) Try to turn the car on and start it. If it starts, recheck codes with LeafSpy and verify that none are present, other than the TCU Conn. If the Angle Sen code is still present, turn the steering wheel right and left, re-clear and check codes
4) If the car still will not start, schedule a dealer repair visit. Your main traction (high voltage) battery has detected a fault and shut off. This should be covered by the 8 year 100k mile warranty. While they may just repair the one failing cell, you will most likely get a new battery (and factory fresh, 2012 range). Celebrate!

What I would NOT do is: Trade in the car at the dealership as a non-running vehicle to avoid the hassle. You have a very good shot of having a brand new battery from Nissan which will make the car more valuable.

Hope your wife loves her new Leaf, whenever she does get it!

Описание U1266 ошибки автомобиля Nissan. В нашем справочнике имеется следующая информация:

На русском языке:

Это не часто встречающаяся неисправность в электрической цепи двигателя или автоматической коробки передач, вероятнее всего специфическая для Вашей марки автомобиля. 

На английском языке:

OBD2 not find in catalog. 

Выберите модель для возможности более детального просмотра информации по этой ошибке:

Найти причину   >>> 

Принимая во внимание тот факт, что OBD2 ошибки работы электронных систем автомобиля не всегда на прямую указывают на неработающий элемент, а чаще дают всего лишь общую информацию о неисправности, мы пришли к следующему выводу:

В разных марках и моделях автомобилей одна и также ошибка может возникать как следствие неисправности абсолютно разных элементов.

Стало понятно, что просто необходим ресурс в котором можно найти не только общую информацию об OBD2 ошибке, а практические данные по конкретному автомобилю.

Опыт автоэлектриков показал, что если рассматривать определенную марка-модель автомобиля, то в подавляющем большинстве случаев причина возникновения какой либо ошибки одна и также.

Мы создаем, не без вашей помощи, справочник причинно-следственной связи возникновения той или иной OBD2 ошибки у конкретного автомобиля (марка и модель). Если на Ваш автомобиль не найдено описание (причинно-следственной связи) ошибки, то не стесняйтесь задавайте вопрос.

Если у вас есть опыт в устранении той или иной ошибки — делитесь опытом с другими пользователями. Так мы сможем сформировать полезный ресурс. По капле от каждого и всем будет полезно.

Возможно будет интересно:

Если ошибка указывает на неверные параметры (высокие или низкие значения) какого нибудь из датчиков или анализаторов, то вероятней всего этот элемент исправен, а проблему надо искать так сказать «выше по течению», в элементах работу которых анализирует датчик или зонд.

Если ошибка указывает на постоянно открытый или закрытый клапан, то тут надо подойти к решению вопроса с умом, а не менять бездумно этот элемент. Причин может быть несколько: клапан засорен, клапан заклинил, на клапан приходит неверный сигнал от других неисправных узлов.

Автомобили с каждым днем становятся все более сложными, но и более диагностируемыми. Наш форум создан для всех, от простых автолюбителей до профессиональных автоэлектриков.

UPDATE 2:

My wall charger was, in fact, broken. I’ve had it repair and can charge the car without problems. The only thing missing is to drive and charge the car as much as possible to see if the original not-starting-problem arises again.

Again, many thanks.

UPDATE:

I’ve followed your advice and changed the 12 V battery for a new one. The car starts now but, of course, that also happened with the old battery when 2 hours pass, so time will tell if this is enough to remove the random not starting problem.

About the wall charger (type 1), it’s still not working. The car charges for about 1-2 minutes, then I can hear the sound of a relay, and the charge stops. After this happens, the car doesn’t start (yellow car with exclamation mark sign turns on in dashboard) and I get the following DTCs:

2020/06/15 20:04:18  27,319 km
  C118C  0108  ABS  EV/HEV System BRC-126
 Ok  None --->  AIR BAG
 Ok  None --->  BCM
  C1A6E  0108  BRAKE  EV/HEV System BR-146
  C1A70  0108  BRAKE  Brake Control System BR-160
  B29C1  2308  CHARGER  EVSE VC-98
 Ok  None --->  EPS
  P3178  0008  EV/HEV  ECU Activation Err EVC-245
  P317A  0008  EV/HEV  Motor System EVC-247
  P3171  0008  EV/HEV  PD Module System EVC-241
  P3170  0008  EV/HEV  PD Module System EVC-241
  P316C  0008  EV/HEV  PD Module System EVC-238
 Ok  None --->  HVAC
 Ok  None --->  HV BATTERY
 Ok  None --->  IPDM E/R
 Ok  None --->  METER
  P324D  0008  MOTOR CONTROL  Drive Motor A Inverter IGBT TMS-96
  P3252  0008  MOTOR CONTROL  Drive Motor A Inverter IGBT TMS-102
  P325B  0008  MOTOR CONTROL  Drive Motor A Inverter TMS-104
 Ok  None --->  MULTI AV
 Ok  None --->  SHIFT
 Ok  None --->  TCU
 Ok  None --->  VSP

Then, I turn off the car and on again, and the warning light is no longer turn on and I can start the car. I checked the DTCs again, but didn’t change from the ones I just posted.

Trying to troubleshoot this, today I used a public type 2 charger (no type 1 chargers near me, but the car came with a converter) and managed to charge the car without any problem at all. Therefore, I’m gonna ask the company that installed my wall charger to repair it. Let’s hope it’s the charger this time…

Thanks for your help.

ORIGINAL POST:

First of all, thanks in advance. I come here out of desperation.

I have a 2017 30Kwh Leaf, bought new in December 2017 in Spain. This is the fourth time that the car has refused to start after a charge (this time with the trickle charger, but this has happened before with a wall charger too). The lights on the dashboard come up, but there’s the orange light with an exclamation mark that indicates that the car won’t start and the red battery light. I’ve got these DTCs using LeafSpy:

 01/17/2020 17:01:54  25,846 km
 Ok  None --->  ABS
 Ok  None --->  AIR BAG
 Ok  None --->  BCM
 Ok  None --->  BRAKE
  B29C1  2308  CHARGER  EVSE VC-98
 Ok  None --->  EPS
  P3171  0008  EV/HEV  PD Module System EVC-241
  P3170  0008  EV/HEV  PD Module System EVC-241
  P316C  0008  EV/HEV  PD Module System EVC-238
  U1000  0008  EV/HEV  CAN Comm Circuit
  P31B4  0008  EV/HEV  CAN Error EVC-279
  U1000  0008  HVAC  CAN Comm Circuit
 Ok  None --->  HV BATTERY
 Ok  None --->  IPDM E/R
  U1000  0008  METER  CAN Comm Circuit
 Ok  None --->  MOTOR CONTROL
  U1000  0108  MULTI AV  CAN Comm Circuit
  U1266  0208  MULTI AV  TCU Conn AV-92
 Ok  None --->  SHIFT
 Ok  None --->  TCU
 Ok  None --->  VSP

Then I tried to power off and on the car, to see if the problem got fixed, to no avail. I tried to connect the charging cable again, but the car refused to charge at all. Then, I tried to clear the DTCs, but couldn’t clear all of them and the car is still unable to start. These are the DTCs I’ve got after trying this:

 2020/06/08 17:17:33  27,289 km
 >C118C  0109  ABS  EV/HEV System BRC-126
 Ok  None --->  AIR BAG
  B2628  0008  BCM  Outside 3 Antenna DLK-75
 >C1A6E  0109  BRAKE  EV/HEV System BR-146
 >C1A70  0109  BRAKE  Brake Control System BR-160
  B29C1  2308  CHARGER  EVSE VC-98
 Ok  None --->  EPS
 >P3178  000B  EV/HEV  ECU Activation Err EVC-245
 >P317A  000B  EV/HEV  Motor System EVC-247
 Ok  None --->  HVAC
 Ok  None --->  HV BATTERY
 Ok  None --->  IPDM E/R
 Ok  None --->  METER
  P324D  000A  MOTOR CONTROL  Drive Motor A Inverter IGBT TMS-96
  P3252  0008  MOTOR CONTROL  Drive Motor A Inverter IGBT TMS-102
  P325B  000A  MOTOR CONTROL  Drive Motor A Inverter TMS-104
  U1266  0208  MULTI AV  TCU Conn AV-92
 Ok  None --->  SHIFT
 Ok  None --->  TCU
 Ok  None --->  VSP

The first time this happened, I walked away (luckily, my car was at home) and came back two hours later, when the car was able to start. I gave the Leaf the benefit of the doubt (silly me) and went on with my life.

Then it happened two more times. Again, I waited for a couple of hours, and drove the Leaf to the local Nissan repair shop; they told me that the problem must have been current spikes because my car was perfectly OK. I told them if they could please replace my 12 V battery (you already know why), but they answered that they’ve tested the battery already and it was OK, so no need to replace it. So, nothing was fixed. They even explained to me what the charging schedule feature was! When I told them that, of course, I know about this feature, they changed their narrative to a power spike.

Some days later, my wall charger stopped charging the Leaf. The charge starts for a couple of seconds, maybe a minute, and then I can hear the sound of a relay and the charge stops. The trickle charger still works, though. Thinking these two events are related, I drive the car to the repair shop again, and they tell me that the car was OK and that the charger was at fault and I should repair it.

Then Coronavirus happened.

And now we arrive at the present time. I haven’t had the opportunity to have my wall charger fixed, but I really believe that the problem is in the car. I’ve been trickle charging it since the last visit to the repair shop and the problem has happened again (back to the beginning of the post). I’d change the 12 V battery myself, but they have told me that, if I do that, I’ll lose my warranty for adding a non-official part (my warranty ends December this year)!

My car is on a financing model (I don’t know the word in English, sorry) in which I’ll have to pay the remaining cost of my car December this year in one go (monthly payments until then) if I want to keep it, and I don’t really want to keep a car that might be faulty.

I understand that my error might be difficult to replicate since it has only happened 4 times in 2 years and a half, so I’d need a miracle for the repair people to detect it, but there surely must be a way to know what’s happening here. They must have seen the same DTC codes I saw, so I’m puzzled on why they said that everything’s OK.

So, do you have any clue at what might be happening here? Do I have a lemon? If so, how can I prove it to Nissan Spain (I don’t even know if my country has any laws for lemons)? I want to escalate this problem ASAP, and it might help me a lot if you have a theory on what’s happening here.

Again, thanks a lot.

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