P0345 ford ошибка

Код ошибки P0345 звучит как «неисправность цепи датчика «А» положения распределительного вала (Банк 2)». Часто, в программах, работающих со сканером OBD-2, название может иметь английское написание «Camshaft Position Sensor «A» Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)».

Техническое описание и расшифровка ошибки P0345

Этот диагностический код неисправности (DTC) является общим кодом силового агрегата. Ошибка P0345 считается общим кодом, поскольку применяется ко всем маркам и моделям транспортных средств (на 1996 год и новее). Хотя конкретные этапы ремонта могут несколько отличаться в зависимости от модели.

Этот код указывает на то, что была обнаружена проблема в цепи датчика «А» положения распредвала (Банк 2). Так как речь идет о цепи, это означает, что проблема может лежать в любой части цепи (самом датчике, проводке или ЭБУ). Поэтому неисправность не всегда кроется в самом датчике положения распределительного вала.

Симптомы неисправности

Основным симптомом появления ошибки P0345 для водителя является подсветка MIL (индикатор неисправности). Также его называют Check engine или просто «горит чек».

Также они могут проявляться как:

1. Тяжелый запуск либо отсутствие старта.
2. Тяжелый запуск с пропусками зажигания.
3. Потеря мощности двигателя.

При появлении ошибки P0345 могут возникнуть проблемы с двигателем, автомобиль может заводиться с трудом или вовсе не заводиться. Проблему, связанную с данным кодом, рекомендуется устранить как можно скорее.

Причины возникновения ошибки

Код P0345 может означать, что произошла одна или несколько следующих проблем:

• Провода или разъемы в цепи могут быть заземлены, закорочены, разорваны.
• Датчик положения распределительного вала мог выйти из строя.
• Возможно, произошел сбой в ЭБУ.
• Существует разомкнутая цепь.
• Возможно, неисправен датчик положения коленчатого вала.

Как устранить или сбросить код неисправности P0345

Некоторые предлагаемые шаги для устранения неполадок и исправления кода ошибки P0345:

1. Визуальный осмотр всей электропроводки и разъемов в цепи.
2. Проверка целостности проводки цепи.
3. Проверить работу (напряжение) датчика положения распределительного вала.
4. При необходимости замените датчик «A» положения распределительного вала.
5. Проверить также схему положения коленчатого вала.
6. При необходимости замените проводку цепи и/или разъемы.
7. Диагностика/замена ЭБУ по мере необходимости.

Диагностика и решение проблем

Проверьте двигатель или просмотрите историю техобслуживания автомобиля на предмет недавнего ремонта зубчатого ремня ГРМ. А также датчика распредвала или датчика коленчатого вала.

При выключенном зажигании снимите фишку с датчика распредвала. Включите зажигание и убедитесь, что тестер загорается между клеммой 1 цепи напряжения зажигания и заземлением.

Проверяем тестером, нет ли короткого замыкания на землю или обрыва/высокого сопротивления в цепи напряжения зажигания. Если проверка цепи пройдена и предохранитель цепи зажигания разомкнут. Проверьте все компоненты подключенные к цепи зажигания, и при необходимости замените их.

Подключить тестер между клеммой заземления 2 и клеммой напряжения зажигания 1. Убедиться, что тестер загорелся. Если тестер не загорается, проверьте цепь заземления на обрыв/высокое сопротивление.

Включите зажигание, проверьте 4,2-5,2 В между клеммой 3 сигнальной цепи и клеммой 2 цепи заземления. Если диапазон сигналов ниже указанного, проверьте цепь сигнала на короткое замыкание на землю или обрыв/высокое сопротивление. Убедитесь, что проверка цепи выполнена правильно и замените электронный модуль.

При значении выше указанного диапазона, проверьте цепь сигнала на наличие короткого замыкания на напряжение. Если проверка цепи выполнена правильно, замените электронный модуль.

Проверьте следующие условия, если до появления ошибки P0345 проводились ремонтные работы:

1. Правильный монтаж датчика распредвала.
2. Правильный монтаж датчика коленчатого вала.
3. Проблема с натяжителем зубчатого ремня.
4. Неправильно установленный ремень газораспределительного механизма.
5. Прыжок зубьев звездочки через зубчатый ремень газораспределительного механизма.
6. Зубчатое колесо коленчатого вала или ревматический датчик распредвала смещены из верхнего тупикового положения (TDC) на коленчатом валу.

При возникновении любого из вышеперечисленных условий произведите необходимый ремонт.

На каких автомобилях чаще встречается данная проблема

Проблема с кодом P0345 может встречаться на различных машинах, но всегда есть статистика, на каких марках эта ошибка присутствует чаще. Вот список некоторых из них:

• Audi
• BMW
• Chevrolet (Шевроле Лачетти)
• Ford
• Infiniti (Инфинити fx35, g35)
• Land Rover
• Lexus
• Mazda (Мазда 6)
• Nissan (Ниссан Мурано, Патфайндер, Теана)
• Subaru (Субару Импреза, Легаси, Форестер)
• Toyota (Тойота Ленд Крузер, Прадо)
• ВАЗ

С кодом неисправности Р0345 иногда можно встретить и другие ошибки. Наиболее часто встречаются следующие: P0012, P0139, P0335, P0340, P0349, P0420, P0606, P2106.

Видео

First of all if you dont like long posts then just go right ahead and hit the BACK button on your browser now. However if you up for a bit of a read on how i fixed my 5.4L 3v go on and continue.

Well it all started one day when the old 2004 F150 with 280 000 k was turned off in front of the shop. It had run fine just minutes earlier when it was driven from home to work. When it was restarted it was running very rough and seamed to be missing, almost backfiring and the CEL was on. We had to use it that day to pull a trailer to a job (just a short 5 min ride up a big hill) well it ran so bad we thought we werent going to make it. Somehow we did and made it back down the hill at the end of the day to the shop.

The first thing we did is go to walmart and buy a OBDII reader. Upon attachment it showed various codes not all of which made sense. So we erased the DTC’s and restarted the engine. P0345 (cam position sensor bank 2) was the first code to show up. After reading on this forum I unplugged the CPS and fired up the truck and it ran smooth again. Other than the check engine light being on and the truck being low on power because the VCT was no longer functioning it ran fine.

The next thing i did was order up a new CPS from the local lordco auto parts and replaced the old one with the new. I plugged the sensor in and fired up the truck and to my dissapointment it still ran like crap. So then i just left the sensor unplugged because we still needed the truck for work.

The 3rd thing i did was take it to the local ford dealership. They had the truck for a day and a half overall. They tried changing the PCM, that didnt help, so they swapped it back. Im not sure what they did after that except charge me a bunch of money for nothing (i finally went and told them they were finished we needed it back now). The tech who had worked on it finally came to the conclusion that because the engine was so high on miles the thrust bearings on the crankshaft were leaking too much oil pressure and this was causing the VCT system to be unable to operate. This we decided was their way of saying «we dont know whats wrong with it but if you let us put a new motor in it I’m sure the problem will go away». Well i wasn’t about to spend $10 000 on a new motor for an old truck. So we just decided to use it for now with the sensor unplugged. The tech tried to tell us not to because it would foul up our catalytic converter. I think this was his way of trying to scare us into leaving it there for them to waste more of our money on.

Anyways then i decided to prove to myself that it wasn’t the oil pressure. The oil pressure gauge in the cab does and always has shown normal and if the engine oil pressure was that bad then i didn’t think it would. Also the problem wasn’t really any better in the morning (cold oil) than it was in the 40C+ afternoons we see here in July. Just to prove it i did a test with straight 30w motor oil. Being thicker this would definitely have an affect on oil pressure. Well the problem stayed the same. So i knew it was not oil pressure.

The next thing i did was buy a digital USB Oscilloscope from http://www.hobbylab.us. I’d been looking for an excuse to buy one of these anyways and decided now was the time. After I learned how to use it i hooked up the A channel to CMP bank 1 and the B channel to CMP bank 2 and started it up. Sure enough as i’d suspected the CMP2 was triggering about 3ms before CMP1. I wasn’t possitive but i was pretty sure that they should be triggering at the same time. After a few more hours of reading on this forum and everything else google could pull up i came across this post http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-eng … rself.html which made reference to the http://www.flatratetech.com/ episode 22. It just so happens in the video they show an oscilloscope reading exactly the same as what I had tested and confirmed what i had suspected that the two CMP sensors should line up.

Now i knew that the valve timing was off (i assumed bank 2 beacuse the P0345 code is for bank 2). But i didnt know why. Among all my hours and hours of reading I’d read many posts of the famous failing phasers and id even read a few posts where the failed phaser caused a P0345 DTC. My bank 2 was ahead of my bank 1 so i thought possibly the phaser had overextended on its return and gotten locked in an over advanced position.

So i followed Steve Bassen’s post here http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/79752 … ement.html to replace the cam phaser. I was too cheap to buy the $150 tool to hold the cam tensioner’s apart so after looking around and thinking for a while i found that a roll of electrical tape with a wire tied around it to retrieve it worked just perfectly. Just jam it way down in there with a long screwdriver and your good to go. Then wen you want it back out just rock the cam back and forth which loosens each side of the timing chain alternately while you pull on the wire and out it comes.

I couldnt find anything visually wrong with the phaser that was in there and it hadn’t been making any odd noises but i was out of ideas and i figured well im this far into it i might as well replace it. I got it all back together with the new phaser and fired it up and as i had already been expecting there was no change. It still ran like crap and CMP2 was still triggering before CMP1. Then i was quite stumped but after thinking and reading some more i decided that somehow cam2 must be one tooth off. I got this idea from the flatratetech.com video as well but i had no reason to suspect this because the truck worked perfectly for years and then one morning after already using it just a few minutes earlier it wouldn’t run properly.

I was completely out of other ideas. So i tore the valve cover back off, reinstalled my electrical tape tensioner holding device, removed the phaser, retarted it one tooth, and reinstalled. Then i cranked the engine over by hand for 2 complete revolutions to make sure that none of the valves were going to hit the pistons. I temporarily bolted the valve cover back on and reinstalled the coils and fired it up. BINGO it runs like a sweet dream now. Nice and smooth again.

The oddest part i find about this whole one-tooth-off idea is that the cam was one tooth advanced. If the crank drives the chain and the chain drives the cam i cant understand why when it skipped it didn’t skip forward leaving the cam one tooth retarded. The only way i can explain it is magic. OK maybe the engine backfired and the chain skipped i don’t know. Not a typical problem for sure.

A few things to note.

1. It took me 3 months from when the problem originally started until i fixed it. During that time we ran it every day for work and pulled a trailer 95% of that time with the cam sensor unplugged. In ran fine other than being a bit low on power.

2. Ford dealers are too expensive to let them troubleshoot in my opinion. If its not a common problem with a known fix I cant afford to pay them to sort it out.

3. Forums like this one and internet searches are your best friend. Find others who have had similiar issues and even tho the symptoms my not be the same does not mean the problem is not the same.

4. I spent
$150 on a Code reader
$65 on a CMP Sensor
$300 — $400 (cant remember) on labour at Ford.
$200 for the oscilloscope
$400 for a new cam phaser.

Thats over $1100 to fix a problem that could have been fixed for free if i’d simply known what was wrong. And who knows maybe for that price they dealer would have figured it out (they sure should have they have the correct tools to do that there). However now i have a code reader and a scope and ive learned alot about triton 3v engines so that i can fix it next time it breaks. Which it probably will. everything has its time limit.

Cam